Cooking Appliance Installation & Repair Specialists.

This is split into 2 sections, Electric & Gas

IN GENERAL

There are 2 methods used to connect gas appliances to the household supply.
The first uses a rigid connection, typically used to connect gas hobs.
The second uses a flexible hose, which is used for all other appliances except the hob.
In addition every gas appliance installation requires a method to isolate the appliance from the main household gas supply

HOBS

Gas hobs are typically connected to the household supply using 15mm rigid copper pipe.
They must have a means of isolation so you can turn the gas supply off to the hob. This is achieved by adding a shut off tap to the installation pipework as close to the hob as it possible.
There must also be a means of disconnecting the pipework from the hob. This is normally achieved by using a compression joint.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION FAULTS

No isolation tap.
Insecure pipework

FREE STANDING COOKERS - RANGES - BUILT IN OVENS

These appliances are normally connected to the household supply using a specifically designed flexible hose that connects to a self sealing bayonet fitting.
The bayonet fitting also serves as the isolation device.
The siting of the bayonet fitting and the way in which the flexible hose hangs are covered in detail by gas regulations and must be adhered to.
Briefly the flexible hose must hang in a "U" shape, (as illustrated in the image below), behind the appliance without touching the floor.
It must not foul on any edges or potentially be trapped or be strained when removing the appliance.
This is covered in more detail further down the page

TYPICAL INSTALLATION FAULTS

Bayonet location incorrect.
(Too low or in an adjacent cupboard)
Bayonet facing upwards
Bayonet & or pipwork insecure
Flexible hose location and routing incorrect

CORRECT LOCATION OF BAYONET

IMPORTANT

Manufacturers instructions take precedence over the following standards

IN GENERAL

There are 2 types of connection
One that plugs into a typical plug socket (Or a fused spur equivalent)
One that requires a 'Cooker point'
The simplest way to explain the 2 methods, is that the more elements you can have on at any one time, the higher the fuse rating and thickness of cable you will require.
For example, a double electric oven (2 doors) can have the oven and the grill on at the same time.
This would take out a 13 amp fuse, which is the highest fuse rating you can have in a plug socket.
So we need a method that allows a higher fuse rating connection. This is accomplished by using a cooker point which is normally protected by a 32 amp fuse

PLUG SOCKET CONNECTION

Basic guideline. If the appliance comes with a cable connected to it, then the maximum rating will be 13 amps
This means it uses a normal plug socket or what is called a fused spur, which can take up to a 13 amp fuse.
In most (but not all cases) they will already have a plug attached to the cable

Appliances that use this type of connection are:
Built in Gas Hobs
Built in Gas Ovens
Built in Single Electric Ovens (Having 1 door)
Gas Ranges.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION FAULTS

Cooker wired up to cooker point instead of a plug socket/fused spur

COOKER POINT CONNECTION

If the appliance does not come with a cable attached to it then it will most likely require connection to a cooker point.
This will require 4-6mm cooker flex that does not come with the appliance.

Appliances that will use this type of connection are:
Built in electric hobs
Built in Electric Double ovens, (Having 2 doors)
Electric free standing cookers & Ranges.
Dual Fuel free standing cookers & Ranges.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION FAULTS

No cooker point ( Cable runs direct to the cooker from the On/Off switch )
Built in electric Hob & Built in electric oven wired to same Cooker point