Cooker, Oven and Hob Installation Costs — Sheffield, Rotherham, Barnsley
All prices quoted assume the existing gas pipework, bayonet termination and electrical outlets are correctly positioned and of the correct type. Use our installation guides below to check your kitchen is ready before you call.
GAS & DUAL FUEL OVENS
£100
Free standing & built-in
Included: Cooker flex hose • Electrical cable • Full safety checks
Stability chain included on free standing appliances
GAS & DUAL FUEL RANGES
£120
Included: Cooker flex hose • Stability chain • Electrical cable • Full safety checks
GAS HOBS
£140
Inclusive of pipework alterations, which are almost always required on hob installations.
Included: Full safety checks
ELECTRIC
£80
All electric appliances including free standing, built-in and electric hobs.
Included: Electrical cable • Full safety checks
Gas Pipework Alterations — Cooker and Hob Installation South Yorkshire
PIPEWORK ALTERATIONS
Any additional charges will always be discussed and agreed with you before work commences — you will never be charged without prior notice.
In some cases, existing gas pipework may need to be altered to comply with current regulations or for cosmetic reasons. Should this be required, an additional charge of approximately £30–£40 will apply.
Unlike high street retailer installers and manufacturer engineers, who are typically not insured to carry out pipework alterations and will often abandon an installation if remedial work is required — sometimes without a refund — we can carry out most remedial work on site. This keeps your installation moving, avoids the hassle of rebooking, and means you always know exactly where you stand with costs.
Important — Manufacturer Compliant Cooker and Oven Installations — Sheffield, Rotherham, Barnsley
⚠ IMPORTANT — MANUFACTURER COMPLIANT INSTALLATIONS
If your appliance is not installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, the consequences can be serious:
- The manufacturer's engineers may refuse to carry out warranty work on your appliance
- Your appliance warranty may be voided
- Your home insurance may not cover you in the event of an incident
We guarantee every installation is fully compliant with manufacturer instructions and current Gas Safe regulations — giving you complete peace of mind and protecting your warranty, insurance and safety.
Cooker, Oven and Hob Installation Guides
Not sure if your kitchen is ready for installation? Use our guides below to check before you call — each section explains in plain English what a compliant installation looks like, with diagrams and examples of common issues.
1
HOT ZONES & CLEARANCES
Understanding the required clearances around your cooking appliance.
Hot zones are clearance areas around cooking appliances that must be kept free of flammable materials and anything that could impinge on the burners. They cover areas to the side, rear and above gas hobs, and around range cookers, high level grills and built-in ovens.
No gas cooking appliance should be installed where these clearance zones cannot be achieved.
Manufacturers instructions always take precedence over the minimum standards shown below. Where the two differ, the manufacturer's specification must be followed.
HOBS, RANGES & FREE STANDING COOKERS
✓ MUST
- Hob hotplate must be level with or higher than the worktop
MINIMUM DIMENSIONS
- A : 760mm — Above hob burner
- B : 460mm — Above hob burner
- C : 50mm
- D : 300mm
- E : 20mm
- Space between hob & splashback/wall: 50mm
Cooker hoods: minimum clearance of A must be the greater of the two clearances stated in both the cooking appliance and cooker hood instructions.
✗ MUST NOT
- Have any plug sockets above the hob
- Have any flammable materials in the hot zone including: curtains, wallpaper, electric cables, plastic or wood
- Note: glass lids are not heat shields
HIGH LEVEL GRILLS
✓ MUST
- You can have a socket behind the splashback or below hob level
MINIMUM DIMENSIONS
- A : 610mm — Above grill canopy
- B : 150mm — To wall above hob level
- C : 20mm
Cooker hoods: minimum clearance of A must be the greater of the two clearances stated in both the cooking appliance and cooker hood instructions.
✗ MUST NOT
- Have any flammable materials in the hot zone including: curtains, wallpaper, electric cables, plastic or wood
2
GAS CONNECTIONS
What a correct gas connection looks like and what to check.
There are two methods used to connect gas appliances to the household supply. The first uses a rigid copper pipe connection, typically used for gas hobs. The second uses a flexible hose, used for all other appliances. Every gas installation also requires a means of isolating the appliance from the main supply.
HOBS
Gas hobs are connected using 15mm rigid copper pipe. They must have an isolation tap as close to the hob as possible, and a means of disconnection such as a compression joint.
TYPICAL HOB FAULTS
- No isolation tap fitted
- Insecure pipework
FREE STANDING COOKERS, RANGES & BUILT-IN OVENS
These appliances connect via a flexible hose to a self-sealing bayonet fitting, which also serves as the isolation device. The flexible hose must hang in a "U" shape behind the appliance without touching the floor, and must not foul on any edges or be strained when removing the appliance.
TYPICAL FAULTS — FREE STANDING & BUILT-IN
- Bayonet location incorrect — too low or in an adjacent cupboard
- Bayonet facing upwards
- Bayonet or pipework insecure
- Flexible hose location and routing incorrect
CORRECT BAYONET LOCATION
Manufacturers instructions always take precedence over the minimum standards shown below.
✓ CONNECTIONS MUST
Flexible Hose
- Hang freely creating a "U" shape
- Allow the appliance to be removed while connected without being strained
Bayonet
- Be located behind the appliance
- Be secured to the wall
- Point downward — unless the flexible hose has a right-angled connector, in which case it may point sideways
Rigid (Hobs)
- Have a gas-rated isolation tap
- Have a means of disconnection such as a compression joint
BAYONET DIMENSIONS
- A : 750mm — Above finished floor level
- B : 50–75mm — From the side of the appliance
- C — See manufacturer's instructions
Previous Standard (still used by many manufacturers)
- D : 500–600mm — Above finished floor level
- 50–100mm inside the edge from the right side of the appliance
✗ CONNECTIONS MUST NOT
Flexible Hose
- Foul or be trapped on cupboard edges
- Touch hot surfaces
Bayonet
- Point upward
- Be fitted into adjacent cupboards
- Be secured to cupboards rather than the wall
Rigid (Hobs)
- Pipework must not foul on a built-in oven installed below it
- Pipework must not foul on cupboard drawers
3
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Correct outlet types and positions for electric and dual fuel appliances.
There are two types of electrical connection for cooking appliances — a standard plug socket (or fused spur), and a cooker point. The type required depends on how many heating elements the appliance can run simultaneously, which determines the fuse rating needed.
PLUG SOCKET CONNECTION — 13 AMP
If the appliance comes with a cable already attached, it will use a standard plug socket or fused spur rated at up to 13 amps. In most cases the plug will already be fitted.
Appliances using a plug socket connection:
- Built-in gas hobs
- Built-in gas ovens
- Built-in single electric ovens (one door)
- Gas ranges
TYPICAL FAULT
- Cooker wired to a cooker point instead of a plug socket or fused spur
COOKER POINT CONNECTION — 32 AMP
If the appliance does not come with a cable attached, it will require connection to a cooker point protected by a 32 amp fuse. This requires 4–6mm cooker flex which is not supplied with the appliance.
Appliances requiring a cooker point connection:
- Built-in electric hobs
- Built-in electric double ovens (two doors)
- Electric free standing cookers & ranges
- Dual fuel free standing cookers & ranges
TYPICAL FAULTS
- No cooker point — cable runs directly from the appliance to the on/off switch
- Built-in electric hob and built-in electric oven both wired to the same cooker point
4
GAS INSTALLATION REQUIREMENTS
Regulations, commissioning and what we check on every installation.
There are strict rules and regulations governing who is qualified to install gas appliances and how they must be installed. Failure to comply can result in voided warranties, insurance complications, and serious safety risks.
✓ GAS APPLIANCES MUST
- Be installed by a Gas Safe registered engineer
- Meet current regulations
- Adhere to manufacturer's instructions
- Have an isolation tap
- Have installation instructions present
- Have a data badge attached
- Be commissioned after installation
- Room must have an openable window or door to outside air
✗ GAS APPLIANCES MUST NOT
- Be installed in a bathroom or shower room
- Be installed in a bed-sitting room if the volume is less than 20m³
- Be installed in a room of less than 10m³ without additional fixed ventilation
- Be installed below ground level if LPG
COMMISSIONING
It is a legal requirement that once an appliance is installed it must be commissioned. Our commissioning checks include:
- Confirm the installation is gas sound
- Check working pressure
- Check gas rates
- Check operation of all safety devices
- Check bypass rates of thermostats
- Check ventilation requirements
- Instruct the user on correct operation
ELECTRIC SAFETY CHECKS
- Earth Loop Impedance
- Earth Continuity
- Insulation
- Fuse Rating